If you have ever been to the Chicago Blues Festival and have spend your nights at the City's famous and lesser-known blues clubs, then you could easily think about deciding to return every year. So this was my last year's resolution and 2002 gave me the opportunity to stay another week in Chicago. Though it was a short-term and unexpected decision by me since the year seemed to be filled with a lot of business affairs and personal projects as well. Economic concerns as a result of the events of 9/11/01 led to a significant drop-down in Chicago's exorbitant hotel rates, and I got a 35% discount on my Lufthansa flight ticket, too. So let's see what my six days & nights in blues had to offer.

May 29 (Wednesday): Arriving in the early evening I had to check-in at my downtown hotel quickly, since the 10th Anniversary Mid-South Blues Festival had already started at 1 PM, so I missed a couple of artists. I would call this open-air festival a classic event - and it's a must for every blues fan. Formerly known as the 43rd Street Blues Festival it has moved to ManDrake Park, which is a newly build area projected by the Mid-South Planning & Development Commission, and located at 39th Street and Oakwood Boulevard. Now the place is no more dominated by 10+story buildings typical for large parts of the South Side. Contrary to that the festival ground now offers sufficient space for street vendors, a trailer serving as the bandstand and the crowd, many of them bring their own folding chair to the site. One minor point of criticism: don't expect no BBQ or other food beyond hot dogs. The (black) crowd is diverse as usual, it's young & old, families with small kids, a lot of teens in track suits and gym shoes, you'll see truck drivers and construction workers coming to check out the venue after work, blues musicians, community activists - and then you got two dozens of blues fans who are easily to identify. Here I met Mark, who knew my website and recognized me, and another group of people from England. We joined on some of the following nights or would cross our ways at Grant Park several times a day. Chicago is a big city, but when it comes to the blues it's seems to me more like a small village.

Eddie C. Campbell was not only co-headling the festival but also provided the backing for a row of singers. Unfortunately I can't recall their names, just look at the photos and if you know them then drop me a line. If you see and hear so many bands and tunes during a week you can't remember exactly and give a detailed description; unless you write some notes but this ain't the kind of way I usually take into a blues concert or club (a few exceptions are allowed). So I will concentrate on personal remarks and issues that I like to talk about. Campbell belongs to the second generation of now seasoned blues artists in Chicago, he's always been characterized as innovative and modern, mainly for his recordings in the 70s and 80s. Here he just showed his versatility in mixing classic and own material, slow tunes and blues shuffles into a great show that led the people dance and call for more. This impression was sustained and strengthened by the guest singers, i.e. Angela Walker, and his fellow Billy Boy Arnold who sang a couple of tunes and played harp, too. I'd seen him seven years before, but here I was well surprised of his singing and stage presence.

The overall direction changed when Oscar Brown Jr. & Maggie Brown followed after a break. This duo was accompanied by keyboard only. Oscar Brown, being unknown to me when I first heard his name, got a long career of more than 60 years in music and entertainment (singer, songwriter, actor, playwright etc.). He was born in Chicago and is closely rooted in the black community. This was proofed by his performance that featured his daughter Maggie. Most people wouldn't call this blues, since there are strong components of gospel, musicals, soul and jazz; his songs were more complex; tough it was well received by the crowd - at least by those who felt reminisence of their younger days in the 50s and 60s, and I don't mean this in any negative sense. Therefore it showed a different aspect of black music to me and I'm happy to have learned about it.

(Update: On May 29, 2005 Oscar Brown Jr. died in Chicago. He was 78.)

When the festival ended it was time to make plans for the night. We decided to check out a yet unknown venue called Club Alphonse. The address is 1351 S. Michigan, so it's not on the South Side, but close to it. We'd expected to see Jimmy Pryor & the Double J Band with Killer Ray & Crumar. As we stepped in this typical neighborhood bar there was no band and it came clear that the gig had been canceled. I didn't want to end the day this way and went to the Northside club Kingston Mines. I had been there in 1996 and my desire to return was little, however, the alternatives on a Wednesday night are usually limited, too. The Kingston Mines is blues industry, that's the term that I use. A large club located in an entertainment district, two bands play alternating on two stages (so the audience has to move after each set!). Even if you would hear the same band as on the Southside, it'll be very different. I won't go here in details, just two observations: a door cover of $13 (during the week!); the MC is as nerve-racking as the waitress. Speaking of the music: Most interesting was the Jimmy Burns Band. Burns started his break-through some years ago with two excellent albums on Delmark Records. I highly like to recommend reading the Jimmy Burns story in Living Blues No. 156 where you can learn all about his carryout restaurant on the West Side! The second band was Andre Taylor & the Blues Alley Cats. They made no big impression on me, since I would count them to a group of modern Chicago bands that rely more on volume and guitar pyro-technics. A final remark on the audience: Weekdays the club is rather cozy than it is over-crowded on a Friday or Saturday night; most of the people are in their 20s and early 30s, so it's an unexpected young audience - another difference to the South Side clubs.

Photos of Jimmy Burns Band (4)

Photos of Andre Taylor & the Blues Alley Cats (1)

May 30 (Thursday): After taking a well-earned rest from being 28 hours on my feet the day before it was time to head out to the 19th Annual Chicago Blues Festival in Grant Park, that beautiful and spacious area at the Lake front. The hard facts: 750,00 people in four days, music on five stages, starting at noon and lasting until 9:30 PM. A day at the fest is not only rewarding but a tough job too. Walking from stage to stage, getting a good sight, taking the narrow schedule in mind, stepping through the large crowd, and trying to get into the restricted seating area if you want to see the headliners performing at the Petrillo Music Shell. The first day saw me alternating between Front Porch and Crossroads stage. The latter is usually a showcase for seasoned local bands and artists, while the Front Porch provides a broader spectrum. Just look at the names below. Dave Weld & the Imperial Flames burned down the house with shuffles, dance-tunes and the classic sax of old-timer Abb Locke who also sang a couple of songs. I knew Locke from an Otis Rush album and as a featured artist in the Jimmy Dawkins band only. Recently I've learned more about his work for Howlin Wolf, back in the late 50s!

Dave Weld is a singer and guitar player who really knows who to work a crowd, he must have learned it while working with Little Ed in the 80s. To sum it up, this is good-time music played for the dancefloors, just imagine this band in a small club... The same is all true for Willie Buck who underlines the importance of soul-blues to contemporary Chicago blues and had Eddie Taylor Jr. on guitar, and finally Gloria Shannon.

Wednesday's headliners were diverse: talented singer Nellie "Tiger" Travis started on the South Side and is trying to receive more attention and gigs on the North Side. She has a CD out, too. She had a group of fans & family in the audience which was interesting to see. A convincing, modern performance. Next was soul & blues veteran Lee Shot Williams who got an unlimited self-confidence and speaks and sings mostly about his effect on woman - sometimes it tended to be for adults only. Notable were also his backing band, especially the horns arranged by Chicago's own Willie Henderson. When they left after an impressing show, the few empty seats filled up with teens and twens, many of them got to the bandstand (though standing there is actually not permitted). What was to come were the North Mississippi Allstars, a trio rated by some media "experts" as the future of the blues. I didn't know anything about them. The first song, Crosscut Saw, paved the way for a cross-over of blues standards and alternative rock or grunge. Sorry, but I left after the second tune, being irritated by the performance and the excessive reception by a part of the audience.

The Checkerboard Lounge is one of the few clubs on the South Side (423 E. 43rd Street) where you better get very early if you want to have a chance for a seat. This is in particular true during the festival week. The club can be seem as a home for many artists and is a mekka for fans from all over the world. So don't expect a crowd from the neighborhood, here you will see mainly college kids from the nearby University of Chicago. This somehow distinguishes the club from being a 100% authentic blues bar (see below for my concept on this issue). I'd been there in 1996 and nothing has really changed. The neighorhood is still tough, the doorman takes care of you when you get out of your car, and screens all club-goers. There's even a small door cover which is unusual. The scanty interior decoration still got the charme of a storeroom - aside from a collection of b/w photos. But all this doesn't make no difference, especially when the hardest working band of the South Side holds court, Vance Kelly & the Backstreet Blues Band. This night, the worn-out term blues party was just an understatement.

May 31 (Friday): Friday brought three more Chicago bands to the Crossroads stage. First, Danny Reed featuring Ricky Allen as special guest. Reed is an excellent soul-blues artists, he started in the late 60s or early 70s as a guitarist. I guess he had more local success since the 80s, he recorded several albums for his own label, but was totally unknown to me. A big surprise, just browse through the photos and you'll possibly imagine his style. The crowd responded well to his performance as it did to Ricky Allen's. He did mostly standards and some of his hits from the 60s when he was a big name in Chicago. Both were backed by a great band, don't know their names yet. Eventually Fred Johnson & the Checkmates went to the stage. Johnson is a singer known for owning the Celebrity Lounge. His 8-piece band included an outstanding horn section providing the right fundament for funky, up-tempo tunes. Being impressed by their performance I decided that I had to see this band on Saturday playing at their homebase, the 7313 Club, recently opened by Johnson. Next were John Brim & the Chicago All Stars. Brim's career highlights go back to the 50s (recording for Chess). Today at age 80 he's an old, respected man having emerged from obscurity some years ago.
 

More photos of Danny Reed & Ricky Allen (21)

Photos of Fred Johnson & the Checkmates (6)

Photos of John Brim & the Chicago All Stars (5)
 

Photos of Rockin' Johnny Band (5)

Photos of John Weston (3)

Photos of Katherine Davis (7)

Photos of Joe Beard (3)

Chicago blues continued at the Petrillo Music Shell with the Muddy Waters Alumni Association which is the remnant of the Muddy Waters Band consisting of John Primer, Carey Bell, James Cotton, Pinetop Perkins, Calvin Jones, and Willie Smith. These guys seem to own a lifetime subscription to the big festivals. I know them from two performances in Europa, and nothing has changed. Each of them use to sing two or three tunes, the song selection doesn't change, and neither Jones nor Smith is really a singer. You see, I tend to be too critical of museum blues, so I better stop here... The next one were James Cotton & his Fiver Star Band. These days Cotton doesn't sing anymore and concentrates on his harp, hence Darrell Nulisch took the vocal part; he was backed by fellow musicians from the old days of Ronnie Earl & the Broadcasters, namely David Maxwell and the great Per Hansen on drums, plus Rico McFarland. A good show, followed by another gem, the Bo Diddley Reunion featuring Billy Boy Arnold, Jody Williams and Clifton James who all appeared on the hit records of Bo Diddley, some 40 or 50 years ago ...

Photos of Muddy Waters Alumni Association (3)

Photos of James Cotton & his Fiver Star Band (2)

Photos of Bo Diddley (5)
 

Friday night, that's when bars and lounges on the South Side are packed with people from the neighborhoods, people dress up and go out to forget about everyday life. Friday night, that's when I went to Lee's Unleaded Blues, located far south (7401 S. South Chicago, this is the address, but it's better if you know where it is: at 74th and Chicago Avenue) and a bit remote. I call it my favorite blues club, because of it's unique combination of place (small, cozy, dark, decorated), people (middle-aged regulars come here to listen to and enjoy bands that play THEIR favorite tunes) and music (soul & soul-blues from the 60s to the 90s, plus rearranged Chicago blues). Even during the festival week, when thousands of tourists invade the city - and I'd expected that they would flood the clubs, too - you won't see there more than one or two hands of non-local blues fans. Lee's is the homebase for Johnny Drummer & the Starlighters who play there every Friday and Saturday, for nearly 10 years now. Johnny Drummer has two CDs out on the Earwig label (I highly recommend the secone one, perfectly titled "Unleaded Blues"), but his career reaches back to the late 50s when he started playing drums. Now he doesn't play drums no more, he has switched to keyboards and sings. He retired from his day job with the Police department in 1994, that gave him the time to focus on his music. He works as a composer and songwriter. His band is very tight, giving much room for the singers performing in the middle of the crowd. This is very similar to Vance Kelly's band; Johnny would sing a couple of tunes and then pass the microphone to countless guest singers.

As far as my memories last, here are some remarks: Leroy Jones, the man walking on crutches, set a highlight by his version of Latimore's "Let's Straighten It Out" which is one of the club's favorite tunes, the response by and interaction with the audience proofed this. Never heard it that way. Just unforgetable as Nora Jean (formerly Wallace, now Bruso) who really grabbed the people with her version of "Loving You is Wrong", which especially was addressed to the ladies in the house. Other tunes were "Further on up the road", "Breaking up somebody's home", "Rock Me Baby", "Big Boss Man" and "Superstar". Nora Jean has been a featured singer in the Jimmy Dawkins Revue back in the 80s and early 90s. Somehow she had disappeared. I knew she would sing at Lee's occasionally, but in 2002 she should start a comeback (see Sunday for more). In general, ladies play the first fiddle at Lee's, and I relate this to the crowd, I would say three out of four people are woman, so most of them get there without their partners. Gents rather sit back and are more reserved, just like this guy :-)

June 1 (Saturday): The festival weekend is always tough if you try to get a good sight and if you walk from stage to stage; there are just too many people overcrowding the festival ground. In addition, the temperature raised up to 85 degrees on Saturday, with a heat index of about 90. There was no way to get into the Petrillo Music Shell area, hence you'll find photos from two bands only. First, W.C. Clark who delivered a solid performance of his rough Texas blues. Second, Rob Stone & The C-Notes which is a young, local band. I'd met her restless promoter Drina at the Checkerboard Lounge on Thursday. She told me about her new band. They play Chicago blues like it sounded in the 50s, so I would call them a retro band - very talented and original. You won't find this neither on the West Coast nor in Europe. Johnny Burgin, here are some guys who enter into competition with your band!

When night was falling blues youngster Shemekia Copeland romped around on main stage. I witnessed her great show from distance while walking through the crowd of 100.000+ people, looking at the bandstand in front of the City's striking skyline - a sight you won't forget.

Saturday night would bring a different experience. It was time for the new 7313 Club on South Halsted, being owned and operated by Fred Johnson. The sign reads "Social Club. Home of the Blues". I went there together with a guy from Germany whom I'd met the night before at Lee's. He has lived in Chicago for some years and knew a lot about the blues scene, in addition he owned a car. When we were arriving we noticed a bus right next to the club, so you had to fear that the club would be jam-packed with people riding on a South Side Blues Club tour. Fortunately, this wasn't true regarding the number of people. Don't get me wrong, these tours are great, and I would have the chance to join one then I would definitely. They offer a unique chance to get to many South Side clubs on a single night, many of them are obscure and not listed in the Reader or elsewhere. It's a cheap and safe alternative also, you don't have to worry about how to get there, whether the club is trustwhorthy, and you're not on your own. But a crowd rushing into a neighborhood club will totally change its atmosphere, hence it was a relief to me when I saw only two hands of non-local blues fans (like us) were inside. They left after two hours and no other would follow.

Attendance by patrons was low, too. The scantily decorated club is spacious, being dominated by a large bar opposite to the bandstand. Fred Johnson & the Checkmates are the house band on every Saturday night. Their cast was the same as at the festival, but no horns this time. The Checkmates are comprised of veteran musicians and are leaded by Ray Allison on guitar. First it was hard for me to believe that this guy is Buddy Guy's long-time, now former drummer. The band played set after set, Fred did two tunes and then let guest singers do the work. Sitting in were O.C. Nunn (excellent soul-blues singer, though his demo CD with four tracks called "Chicago Bluesman - The Heart Fixer" is more traditional Chicago blues), Good Rockin' Sam (who was sloppy drunk), Grandmaster (soul-blues as well), and Ricky Allen (classic Chicago blues). A never-ending line of standards and unknown tunes, delivered by talented artists and a professional, tight band. I stayed until the end when there were more musicians than non-musicians - if I've counted correctly it was just me, two patrons (Eve & Oscar) plus two relatives of the band. If you see this struggling club, you really get the blues. Nevertheless, go get there if you like to visit a South Side club off the beaten track. You won't regret.

June 2 (Sunday): Don't drink too much on Saturday night because you have to get up early on Sunday when it's time for the mandatory Delmark Blues Brunch starting between 9 and 10 AM. Show up there early if you want to get a seat in the tiny concert room, or you'll have to stay in the shop and would just hear the bands. The line-up is very similar every year, since it's a showcase of the Delmark roster. Tail Dragger and Arthur Duncan were most exciting. Besides you have the Delmark Ladies, the Rockin' Johnny Band, the Jimmy Burns Band, the core band of Dave Specter respectively Ken Saydak and a couple of featured guests. Here you'll meet the hardcore fans from all over the world (if you hadn't meet them at the clubs already).

On the last festival day I concentrated my efforts on just one act. First I'd to wait nearly an hour until they opened the gate to the Petrillo Music Shell, then I'd to wait another 40 minutes for the first band. After that it was time for the Jimmy Dawkins Band. These days Dawkins, at age 65, rarely plays festivals or clubs, even in Chicago where he lives since 1955. He started to play guitar in 1957, the rest is history - though this is quite an exaggeration since he never made the final step to a broader, long-term success in the blues circuit. He's definitely the prime guitarist of 70s Chicago blues, but these days are long gone. In 1992 he started a comeback with his now classic "Kant Sheck Dees Bluze" album for Earwig and continues recording albums and performing overseas. But I digress from the subject - I use the term JD band in reminiscence of the 70s and early 80s, when he had Sylvester Boines, Rich Kirch, Tyrone Centuray, and later Jimi Schutte in his band. The festival brought a re-union of the remaining members plus the saxes of Eddie Shaw & Maurice John Vaughn, and Billy Flynn & Keith Scott on guitar. An impressive 9-piece band layed the basis for a set of up-tempo tunes which was opened by Billy Flynn on "Nothing But Trouble".

Dawkins did "Luv Sumbody" (his best known song, now a staple in Chicago), "Feel So Bad" (another keeper), "I Ain't Got It" (one of the few newer songs that he performs in concert), "Ode To Billy Joe" (a trademark instrumental) , and "Going Down" (this was for the crowd). Nora Jean was seen as guest singer on "Big Boss Man" and "Breaking Up Somebody's Home". Dawkins gave her and Eddie Shaw a lot of room, the latter had many fans in the audience who went crazy everytime he got into a solo. The positive picture became clouded only by Dawkins' guitar sound which wasn't big as usual. Later he told me that they didn't bring his amplifier to the stage, and that he was really disappointed. Having seem him at a club two years ago and having stood just 6 feet from his amp I know what his big sound is all about. I was not the only one who had liked to hear that sound spreading out into Grant Park. Regarding his band, the selection of songs and his overall performance & stage presence I would call it still a good show, and I guess the people liked it, too.

More photos of Jimmy Dawkins Band (29)

Further headliners on Sunday: Johnnie Mae Dunson, Betty LaVette, Blood Ulmer & Vernon Reid. Sorry, no photos available.

Just like last year, the Rockin' Johnny Band played at B.L.U.E.S. on Sunday night. Together with Tail Dragger - the unique singer and fascinating entertainer - they celebrated a blues party for a large crowd at this Northside club. But the real reason why I got there was to meet Jimmy Dawkins. I'd asked his drummer Jimi Schutte three weeks before about an after-show performance and he said he would go to B.L.U.E.S. on Halsted. When I stepped into the club I knew it was the right decision since the complete JD band was in the house. We talked among other things about his upcoming European tour (starting right the next week), his recording philosophy ("No Sweet Home Chicago"), and my failed attempt to learn to play guitar (he showed me that it got nothing to do with the length of fingers). I asked him to play some tunes this night, but he didn't seem very much excited about it. Finally, his band went to the bandstand, he followed them and so he did "All your love", which usually begins with a stunning intro by Jimi Schutte (I first heard it on a live recording with Ray Scott on drums who retired years ago). Next was an instrumental, then Nora Jean joined in with "Breaking Up Somebody's Home" and a couple of more tunes.

This night saw also Sammy Fender who sang the highest praises of Johnny Burgin ("He's a bad, bad m**********r").

More photos of Jimmy Dawkins Band (11)

June 3 (Monday): My last day was a Monday - this offerend the perfect chance to check out another famous South Side club called Artis's on 87th Street. Artis's is the homebase for Billy Branch & the Sons of Blues. He and his band play there every Monday, if they are in town. I had arranged to meet Mark there. The audience is younger than at Lee's. The music is more traditional Chicago blues with funky and rock elements, but it's definitely no soul-blues. A night at Artis's, that is music after 9 PM until 1 or 2 AM, the band will start with some tunes, then Billy Branch will join, eventually guitarists and singers will sit in. Here are some names: John Primer, Lenny Lynn, Delores Scott, Carlos Johnson, Ronnie Baker Brooks, and Tré. The list of (female) singers was even longer since a group of girls were celebrating the graduation of a fellow from College and nearly everybody had to step to the microphone. The reservoir of talent in this neighborhood seems to be very big. Artis's was the right closure of my Chicago visit...

June 30 (Saturday):
Just four weeks after the blues festival I returned to Chicago. Even this stay was planned earlier. I was coming from a research conference in Newport Beach, California, and took this chance to stop-by. The weekend started very hot with 95 degrees and a heat index of nearly 100 degrees. You could see and feel that the City was suffering from the hot and oppresive weather. On this Saturday I got back to Lee's Unleaded, because I wanted to see this club and Johnny Drummer & the Starlighters on an usual night off the festival week. When I arrived it wasn't packed at all, the music started later at 10 PM, but then it filled up quickly and I was happy to have a good seat on the right hand bar. Sitting in were Leroy Jones, Patricia Scott, and Little Al Thomas. Billy Branch blowed his harp and a guy called The Whistler did a stunning whistling on "I'll play the blues for you". Between sets I talked with Roosevelt who is the new doorman at Lee's (they didn't have a doorman on the two occasions before). I asked him about the current state of Lee's, he told me of a change in management and proprietory.

Later the MC announced that they would start to book Vance Kelly & the Backstreet Blues Band again. Roosevelt introduced me to Johnny Drummer, who surprisingly greeted my in German - he had lived two years in Germany in the 50s when he was serving in the Army. Standing outside the club, watching patrons arriving or leaving, and conversating with fellows was really cool. By the way, this night Danny Reed wore the best dress of all gents, a tight, yellow suite.

More photos of Johnny Drummer (10)

If you have spent a night at Lee's then it can hardly get any better, so I decided to skip all Chicago blues on Sunday and Monday. Instead I took some time off and visited the Museum of Science and Industry, the John Hancock Center (Observatory) and the Sears Tower (Skydeck). Photos from these touristic attractions will close my report.

Photos: John Hancock Center - Observatory (14)

Photos: Sears Tower - Skydeck (17)

Photos: Museum of Science and Industry (3)