Chicago's blues scene offers a wide variety of spots and bands the whole year. I had the pleasure to get to know this on my last two visits. But one thing is missed so far: the Chicago Blues Festival. Being one of the biggest music festivals in the world it takes place on the first weekend in June. Since it's beginning in the early 80s it has grown steadily, now it lasts four days and brings music on six stages. This year's attendance reached a new record: 750,000 people populated the beautiful Grant Park at the Lake Michigan. So I caught the chance and stayed in Chicago ten nights. Let's start here with my report including 270 photos.

June 2 (Saturday): The best thing to get familiar with the Chicago blues scene is to check out Rosa's Lounge. Located north-west in a hispanic neighborhood and operated by Rosa & Tony, immigrants from Italy, who book local bands and (sometimes) on weekends national artists. The schedule told that Big Jay McNeely would perform on Friday and Saturday. Big Jay is one of the few living wild & crazy sax players from the early days of Rythm & Blues and Rock'n'Roll. He had his big hits in the 40s and 50s. "Honking and screaming", that's how they describe his style - let me add: Dancin' all night long and havin' a good time. And that's still his approach. Now at age 74 he ain't stop to blow like crazy, walkin' through the club, playing behind the bar, on the billard pool or laying on his back. The crowd responded great, taking part in his 10 minutes plus call-and-respone songs. What a party! Tony, thanks a lot for bringing Big Jay, who lives in Los Angeles, back to Chicago after a 10 years absence. Some words to the backing band: Jesse Scinto & the Dignitaries are a pretty good local R&B retro combo. They had special guest Billy Flynn on lead guitar. Billy is a master on the six-string. Rooted in the 70s West Side sound due to his mentor Jimmy Dawkins (watch out for Billy's outstanding CD with the Smokedaddy Band), he stretchts out to different styles including classic 50s Chicago blues and 60s rock instrumentals (surf sounds, best heard on his CD 'Big Guitar').

June 3 (Sunday): After I had convinced the cab driver that 7401 S. South Chicago is an address on the South Side and that I wanted to go there, the biggest hurdle was taken. My limited impression: the toughest thing of Chicago's South Side is to get a cab who's driver don't ask you five-times if you really want to go there. On the other hand, the guys are all nice, take care of you and offer to bring you back to your hotel when you call. Lee's Unleaded Blues is a small and cozy hangout for mainly middle-aged regulars from the surrounding neighborhood. Friday through Monday, Lee's features live blues, and it filles up quickly. Here you won't find any tourists or business people like on the North Side. The overall feeling is different. Especially on weekends, it's some kind of going-out-tonight, the club goers get dressed up in their best suites, hats and shoes. The blues is more soulful, guitar firework is not seen. That was proven by Vance Kelly & the Backstreet Blues Band. Kelly is both a strong singer and guitarist who mixes soul, funk and Chicago shuffles. His band included two of his children, on vocals and bass.

As usual, the night brought a couple of singers to the bandstand, others were just in the house. That points to a main aspect not mentioned yet: here at Lee's, as a lively club in a black neighborhood, there's a lot of more communication and interaction between the crowd and the band. Even more, it's an elementary part of the whole performance. The singers stand in front of the crowd, walk through the crowd and do some mess around (you know what I mean). Artists who showed up were: Vivian Kelly, Prince Jesse, Pat Scott and the guy on the right with a jaunty blue suit (sorry, I guess his name is Vaughan Rush, but I'm not sure). All performed outstanding, the band played tight and variable, and the imaginary set list didn't include overplayed standards, on the contrary I could identify only a hand of songs! To sum it up, at Lee's you'll hear the real living Chicago blues in an exciting environment. The people are nice and friendly (Ollie, I'm gonna send you the proposed photos soon). One warning: Don't be surprised if you find yourself on the dance floor ... in the arms of a hot mama ...

June 5 (Tuesday): The Harlem Avenue Lounge is located in Berwyn, a typical and boring suburb. The club is more like a sports bar which features live blues on three nights a week. Patrons are middle-aged, middle-classed, and male. I went to see Jimmy Burns. He did two solo sets without a band. That wasn't what I had expected, but I wouldn't call it a disappointment. Burns, who is 58 and operates a carryout restaurant on the West Side since the 80s, is a well gifted singer, guitarist and songwriter. That night he relayed on standards, his real talent came to light later (see below). Besides I met Tom, a guitarist from Muenster. As he went in, Jimmy called "Hey, there's Tom, he comes down here every year, he's from Germany." Tom played some songs, too. He's a hard-core blues fan, knows a lot of clubs and artists on both South and West Side, our ways crossed several times during the week. Now you could see the Blues Fest ahead.

June 6 (Wednesday): Just a day before the Blues Fest started, it was time for a some kind of alternative event on the South Side called 9th Annual 43rd Street Blues Festival. It's an open air festival beginning before noon and featuring local bands plus a national act in the evening. The site is King Center Plaza at 44th Street and South Cottage Grove. I went there late at 6 p.m., so I missed Howard Scott, L.V. Banks, Pat Smillie and others. As I arrived I noticed my friend Johnny Burgin of The Rockin' Johnny Band. We greeted each other and I can tell he was well surprised again, having met me unexpected last August. I told him of my visit and later he invited me to check out some other spots this night (see below). Here, the (black) crowd - I guess 300 people - was diverse in age and appearance, ranging from teens in tracksuits and gym shoes over well-dressed couples to old-aged pensioners. A lot of musicians stayed there, too. I recognized Little Smokey Smothers, Sammy Fender and Eddie C. Campbell among others. The festival is a hot tip for nonlocal blues fans. Therefore I had arranged to meet blues enthusiast Gustavo from Argentina. He plays in the Albert King Tribute Band and keeps the blues alive in Buenos Aires! Believe me, there they really start to support the blues. Gustavo and his fellows came right from Memphis and stayed the next days in Chicago. And I must say, we met virtually every day/night at the Fest or a club.

As singer Bobby Rush and his revue started, he drawed the crowd to him immediately. Rush is a major attraction on the Chitlin Circuit, an independent black music market in black communities of the southern states. Having made his first steps on Chicago's West and South Side, he moved to the Soul and Soul-Blues genre in the 70s. Today at age 60, he still does his energetic show and receives frequently the Living Blues award as best live performer. Some call it Las Vegas, but without a doubt he's an excellent entertainer and singer, the people were grooving and yelling from the beginning to the end. Similary to the night at Lee's Unleaded, the songs were for adults only. The band was lead by guitarist Vasti Jackson, who played a great determinant sound. Rush payed even tribute to Muddy Waters as he did a couple of classics like "She's 19 Years Old", a tune perfect for his macho style. Did I mention his four sweet, very young dancers?

After Rush's performance Johnny and I decided to eat at a restaurant, where we joined with three fellows of Johnny. Then we drove southwards to Club Malcolm located on 83rd Street. Promising the sign reads: "a world of its own". At this small bar L.V. Banks & His Swinging Blues Band use to play every Wednesday. It's not a real blues club, but a hangout for a young (and male) crowd in their working class outfits. On this night most people were interested in watching a L.A. Lakers basketball match on two tv screens. One big screen stood behind the drummer! You see, the blues ain't the focus of interest, but an accepted part. As shown on the photo, in front of the bandstand: food for free!

L.V. is a seasoned singer/guitarist on Chicago's South Side where he works since the mid 60s. Well suited and in fine condition, he doesn't look like 68. His guitar tone is fat and his great phrasing sets the path for thrilling shuffles and slow burners as well. Johnny jammed with L.V. on two tunes, guitarist Ice Mike Thomas joined the band, too.

June 7 (Thursday): Let's start with the 18th Annual Chicago Blues Festival. The first impressions are surprise and pleasure that blues can play such a big role in a city or country. It's not limited to fans like in Europe, but is a part of culture/entertainment. The crowd attending the fest is diverse as possible, the site is vast and offers sufficient space for your blanket, deckchair and cold bag - these are the three most seen items. Organized by the Office of Special Events, it seems that even Mayor Richard M. Daley supports (or has) the blues. Though that's another story: Mayor Daley must be the most important citizen in Chicago - first, you see his name and face when you arrive at the airport, then on every cab licence, and here in big letters on main stage. Six stages are distributed in Grant Park, they range from a small tent to the separated Petrillo Music Shell with its seating area. I didn't make it to see all performances, and here I'll focus on few selected performances. The complete list of artists is much longer.

Rock'n'Roll legend Chuck Berry headlined the first day. Having seen him four years ago, I was well surprised and pleased with his performances. He still knows how to rock, he just came on stage and started his thang: songs from the past expressing the spirit of the youth in the 50s. The crowd raised up and didn't sit down again. Additionaly, Chuck did some slow blues tunes, here you could see his St. Louis roots. Today at age 74, Chuck is in good condition, and the only cut is that he can't do his famous duck walk anymore. Later I've read some complaints about his show, my impression was different.

After Jody Williams played on mainstage, the emcee announced that he would appear at Rosa's, too. This gave the rare opportunity to see this guitar master in an intimate club environment. He was backed by Nigel Mack & Blues Attack, a very solid band from Canada. Last year Jody had reemerged in the blues after 25 years. His early work goes back to the 50s, he can be heard on classic recordings by Howlin Wolf and Bo Diddley. Today at age 66, his style is more sophisticated than the usual Chicago sound. At Rosa's he did an impressing show including T-Bone Walker stuff, his own songs and instrumentals from the 50s/60s, and some Chicago shuffles. He's one of the true stylists and highly esteemed by fans and musicians. Johnny Burgin listened attentively and enthusiastic, too.

June 8 (Friday): As the Blues Festival proceeded the weather got better (and hotter) every day, reaching the 80s on Sunday. Friday started right for me with the fabulous project Blues in the Schools. Titled The Songs of Willie Dixon a class of children lead by Billy Branch performed some classic tunes. The joy was visible, and on both sides. The crowd loved the so called Blues Babies!

Veteran drummer Sam Lay played two gigs, one solo and one with the Classic Chicago Blues Combo. The second showcased his classic Chicago blues drumming.

West Side singer Johnnie Mae Dunson Smith impressed with her powerful performance. Eomut RaSun is a harmonica player, he got a weekly gig at Rosa's. Country blues was the subject of Jerry Ricks.

The Rockin' Johnny Band rocked the central Showcase Stage.

Magic Slim was first seen in a rare acoustic solo setting, but later he could prove why they call him Chicago Powerhouse. He and his Teardrops tored down the Front Porch Stage. It was so rousing that I missed the show of Billy Branch & Barbara LeShoure.

Veteran Robert Jr. Lockwood and his big touring band did their usual mix of country blues and jazzy tunes. Special guest Travis Haddix had a very short appearance.

Ike Turner & The Kings of Rythm closed the night with a great blues and R'n'B show. Nearly 70 and called as one of the originators of Rock'n'Roll, Ike still knows how to hit the keys of his 88. He even used the classic "5 long years" for a cut at his former wife Tina ("had the nerve to make a film").

I returned to B.L.U.E.S. where Jimmy Johnson did one of his regular Blues Fest gigs. His groundbreaking work of the late 70s/early 80s is credited as the injection of Soul into Chicago blues. Today at age 72, Jimmy is still strong at vocals and on the fretboard. But I have to repeat my impression, his real talent comes through very rarely these days. Too many standards, too much solo work by his guitarist. Johnson proofed two times that he has more to offer: "Somebody loan me a dime" and "I'll play the blues for you" were the highlights, and incomprehensibly the only tunes where he played lead guitar! Don't get me wrong, his show and his band weren't bad. The house was packed, the crowd had a ball. In the audience I noticed Sammy Fender & Sugar Baby, and even Rich Kirch from California.

June 9 (Saturday): The Chicago Blues Festival continued with Homesick James, a member of the first generation of pre-war blues musicians in Chicago. He's 81 and was joined but a veteran rythm section consisting of Bob Stroger on bass and long-time Muddy Waters' drummer Willie Smith. Together they did some downhome blues, they had fun and the people enjoyed it.

Now it was time for two ambassadors of the West Side sound, both on main stage. Eddy Clearwater was first, he rocked through a set of new tunes from his recent albums (e.g. Cool Blues Walk, Reservation Blues, Winds of Change). His band included youngster Tom Holland on second guitar, Allen Batts on keys and veteran sax player Gene Barge. Some great sound, and Eddy's performance is worthwile all the time. He's 66 and now on the top of his career.

Otis Rush is one of the originators of what we call West Side sound: a predominant Gibson guitar, extensive phrasing and (if you can pay them) a horn section, lead by Otis' bariton sax player since over 35 years, Willie Henderson. And I can tell, the sound was the real meat, the songs used to run 8 or 10 minutes. Don't expect any surprises by Rush. He's no entertainer, does no clowning, moves very little on stage. But he does play, still plays trademarks tracks like All Your Love, So Many Roads, Crosscut Saw. Pulls out feelings equally through his guitar and voice. What a feeling hearing this great band, and when you turn around you see the large crowd in front of the illuminated Chicago skyline!

The HotHouse is the nearest club to Grant Park. I went there to see Snooky Pryor, the inventor of the amplified blues harp, and Robert Jr. Lockwood. Unfortunately Pryor canceled the show. Lockwood, who started in the 1930s, is 86 years old. He did a country blues set. Not very exciting in my opinion, but I caught a rare gig and shot some nice photos. He was accompanied by John MacDonald. The HotHouse is unlike many other clubs in the city, I would call it sophisticated. People who sat in were Jody Williams and Ronnie Baker Brooks.

June 10 (Sunday): If you are in Chicago for the Blues Fest, don't miss the free Delmark Blues Brunch. Get there early by 10 a.m. and you will experience an unique accumulation of blues artists from the Delmark roster, Chicago's finest blues label since 35 years. The site is the famous Jazz Record Mart in downtown. Here they all come together, this year's line-up included James Wheeler ("blues so early in the morning, oh sh**!"), Jimmy Burns (this time some great West Side guitar style, though his second talent comes through on his soulful Delmark album "Night Time Again"), Willie Kent, Bonnie Lee, Big Time Sarah, Zorah Young, Alex Schultz, Ken Saydak, The Rockin' Johnny Band (Delmark's house band), Lurrie Bell, and others. The show was hosted by guitarist Dave Specter whose band did most of the backing work. The overall feeling was loose.

The 18th Annual Chicago Blues Festival closed with headliners Son Seals, Jimmy McCracklin, C.J. Chenier and Irma Thomas. No photos available.
 

The Rockin' Johnny Band are Johnny Burgin, Rick Kreher, Sho Komiya and Kenny Smith. Together they have earned a reputation through their innumerable gigs on Chicago's West & North Side and backing/recording some fine veteran singers like Arthur Duncan, Jimmy Burns and Tail Dragger. Just have a look at your Delmark CDs and you'll agree. They have recorded a live CD at B.L.U.E.S. last fall. So far More Real Folk Blues is available in Chicago only, though it's a good example of the band's concept, a very own combination of various Chicago styles from the 50s to the West Side sound. On Sunday they played at B.L.U.E.S. with Tail Dragger. As I'd expected, an entertaining show. Guests were Twist Turner on drums, Mojo Mark on harp and Tom from Muenster.

June 11 (Monday): The last night I spent at Rooster Blues, a new club west of the Loop. They have still some troubles to attract a large crowd, but let's hope they finally make it, cause the club is a real nice site and they have an impressing roster. Additionaly, it's a hang-out for fellow musicians, I noticed Michael Coleman and Son Seals. Lurrie Bell & the Next Generation Blues Band use to play here Mondays. Bell is a creative and impressive guitarist. His band was equally talented.